Gary and I had scheduled a Monday morning meeting in Chicago that required us to go there Sunday. So we decided to make the most of inconvenience and go out for a very good meal that Sunday night. And what a meal we had.
We knew about the meeting a month out so we had time to decide and get a reservation. So we created a list of possibilities and narrowed the list down to Table 52. This is Chef Art Smith’s place in Chicago which features Southern Cooking. I have seen Chef Smith several times on Iron Chef America and Top Chef. He was Oprah’s personal chef, recently cooked for Lady Gaga and President Obama and Michelle ate at Table 52 for Valentine’s Day so there was a really good chance it was going to be memorable. And it was.
Gary started his meal with the Southern Pickles. The dish came with several house-pickled cauliflower, carrots and okra with micro greens, onions, two kinds of salt, baguette, smoked gouda and jelly on the side. The idea was to make your own pickle sandwich out of the ingredients trying the different ingredients. I like participation dishes like this where you can choose your own combination of food so when Gary offered a taste, I went for it. The pickled vegetables were tender and sweetly pickled but not to the point where the taste of the vegetable was lost or the crunch was gone. The rest of elements added interesting tastes of sweet jam and salty salts along with different textures of crusty bread, crunchy pickles and gooey jam. Combining the different elements of the dish was fun but we both agreed that although the gouda cheese was fine on it’s own we couldn’t find a combination that matched well with the cheese.
I went for the Beet Salad for my first course. The salad came with nice portions of two colourful beets, whipped goat cheese, thyme crumble and Myer lemon puree. For what I thought was going to be a simple salad turned out to be a very complex dish by the various combination of items you could put on your fork. The sweetness of the beets matched well against the tartness of the Myer Lemon Puree and the almost metallic flavour of the Thyme Crumble. The textures of the dish also provided a spectrum of densities, firm beets, semi soft Whipped Goat Cheese and thick puree. We wanted wine with the meal and had our waiter match a glass of wine with each course. For this course we had Acustic from Montsant (Catalonia, Spain) named ‘unplugged’ in the same way that you find ‘naked’ (oak free) Chardonnay.
For Gary’s second course, he went for the classic southern dish Fried Green Tomatoes. The two large heirloom tomato slices were lightly battered and then pan-fried giving the tomatoes a light crunch with a soft center. Along with the tomatoes came fresh greens, creme fraise and a light tomato puree. Like an old married couple, Gary and I ended up sharing tastes from each others dishes so I can report this version of the southern classic was great. The sweetness of the fried tomatoes contrasting nicely with the spicy tomato puree. The crisp greens and silky puree matched well also. For this course, our waiter recommended the Eyrie Chardonnay from Oregon. I found the wine to have a light oakiness and a little bit fruity. A nice match for both the Fried Green tomatoes and my dish.
For my second course, I also went for a southern classic in Low-Country Shrimp and Grits. I lived in Florence, South Carolina back in the 80′s so I tried grits many times but never became a big fan but when you are at Art Smith’s restaurant you give them another try. It was great!. These grits were Stone-ground White Corn Grits and so different from my memories of the 80′s. These grits were more like a risotto than the cream of wheat memories. These grits were nice and creamy as a whole but the individual grits still had a bite to them as in “el dente” pasta. A very nice consistency. The Wild-Caught Shrimp were tender, sweet and well-cooked. The Spicy Tomato Sauce contrasted well with the sweet shrimp and creamy grits. Basically a very simple dish but well executed with excellent ingredients.
For Gary’s main course, he went for the Fish of the Day special, which was Halibut. I forgot to bring my recorder to get all the details of the dish but from my memory, the fish was pain fried and topped with a variety of vegetables and greens. I got to taste the fish and it was perfectly cooked with flakes falling off with just the touch of your folk. Halibut is my favourite fish and Table 52 did it right.
For the main course we decided to order the Braised Collard Greens with Smoked Turkey as our side dish. Collard Greens are about as “southern” as you can get but the smoked turkey was different twist I had not seen before. The more common version I had seen when I lived in the south was with ham hocks. The turkey version turned out fine with greens taking on a light sweet taste of the turkey but not the saltness of the ham version. The greens were well-cooked, infusing the turkey into the vegetable but stopping the cooking before turning the veggies into mush. This was the best dish of collard greens I have ever eaten.
For my main course, I went for the Maple Sugar Short Ribs. These were the most tender short ribs I ever had in my life. Just using your fork you could twist the meat and it would flake off into single strands of flavourful meat. The carmelized maple sugar matched well with meaty flavours of the short rib. The dish came with red wine reduction that match well but I was so focused on the tender meat. A potato puree was the matching starch and a carmelized onion accompanied the dish. Our waiter recommended the 2007 Cristom Pinot Noir to go with the dish. I thought this was an interesting recommendation given Gary’s fish and my short rib selection but it ended up being perfect for both of us. Not overcoming the fish and not under powered for the ribs. Nice wine selecting Justin.
I have had the privilege to eat in several celebrity chef restaurants; Emeril’s, Bobby Flay’s Mesa Grill, BLT Prime, Daniel, over the years but one thing was always missing, the celebrity chef. Until this visit. Making several tours of the dining room during our three courses was owner/celebrity chef Art Smith. He stopped at every table checking to see how the meal was progressing. I thought the treat of the evening was going to be this photo of the two of us but it got better when Art joined us at our table as the restaurant thinned out at the end of service. They say that television puts pounds on you but this thinner and fitter version of Chef Smith has been dieting and exercising lately and looked the healthiest I have ever seen him. I wish I could say that about myself but after this great meal, I wouldn’t have much credibility would I.
It gets worse, Gary and I agreed that we were going to pass on dessert as we were both pretty full from the three courses, wine and cocktails we had already consumed. But as we sat there with Chef Smith he had the staff big over some desserts for us to try. First came the Smith Family Twelve-Layer Chocolate Cake. Delicious, light and a great chocolate flavour. The cake came with Vanilla Gelato and Strawberry for contrast.
Next came the Peanut Brittle. I remember peanut brittle as a Christmas treat during my childhood but this was the best brittle I ever had. The thick rich harden caramel sauce was chock full of fresh Georgia peanuts. I was amazed at how thick the brittle was. It was very good and very sweet.
Finally Executive Chef John, formerly of Charlie Trotter’s restaurant, brought over Art’s Hummingbird Cake. I had my share of cake when I lived in the south but never had Hummingbird cake. If I had most likely I would still be in the south cause this is great cake. Art make his version with Banana and Pineapple flavours three layers high all coated in Cream Cheese Frosting. Served on the side is a wonderful Vanilla Gelato. It was delicious with all the different flavours going on and amazingly light.
We had a great chat with Chef Smith during our 30 minute sit-down talking about everything from the making of Iron Chef, his diet and exercise plan, to who’s cooking in Chicago he likes (and who’s he doesn’t) and where he likes to go hear the Blues in Chicago. The evening ending amazingly with Chef taking us to his favourite Blues Club in Chicago and having a couple of cocktails listening happily to the blues.
It was an amazing meal that will, most likely, never happen again. Thanks Gary and Chef Smith for a great meal and a great story.
Read other reviews about Table 52 here, here and here.
Table 52 52 Elm Street, Chicago, IL – 312-573-4000
The Concierge at our hotel also suggest that if we go to Pesca make sure we try the Sea Scallops. Sure enough another good recommendation as we all got to try one scallop. Served with Arugula, Lotus Root, Ginger-Sweet Chili in a Coconut Broth, the perfectly cooked scallops were excellent. Slightly carmelized on the outside, sweet and light on the inside. The Crispy Arugula and Dense Lotus Root were good contrasts to the light density of the scallops. the Ginger and Chili went well with the sweetness of density. This was the Signature Dish of the restaurant and worth getting if you visit.
Ryan and I got to go to Ooka in Doylestown for Sushi today because Donna went bowling with Jojo and left us to make our own lunch. I have gotten several recommendations from Facebook friends and Chowhounds on how good the sushi is at Ooka so eating there has been on my Foodie to-do list for quite a while. The recommendations were spot-on; the sushi was top notch, the venue was very comfortable and the service impeccable.
Both my meal and Ryan’s meal came with Miso Soup and Garden Fresh Salad with Ginger Dressing. The Miso Soup was one of the best miso soups I have ever had. A hearty broth with delicious pieces of Mushrooms, Tofu and Scallion floating in it. The Garden Fresh Salad was pretty typical of other Japanese restaurants’ salads with the exception of the Ginger Dressing which was Creamy and with a Delicate Ginger Flavour as opposed to the usual version that comes with overwhelming ginger flavours. We also tried some Japanese beer and went for the Sapporo brand. I actually like the match up of beer and sushi so it was working for me. 
Ryan went for the N.Y Steak Teriyaki Bento Box.The Angus beef steak came with and order of rice, two California Rolls, Shrimp & Broccoli Tempura and a Japanese Treat. The steak came medium rare and coated in sweet teriyaki sauce. The rice was perfectly cooked. Both Shrimp and Broccoli Tempura were perfectly cooked and crispy but leaving the shrimp and broccoli fresh and delicious. The California Rolls were classic and even a little larger in diameter than I am used to getting. The dish also came with two Gyoza Pan-fried Pork Dumplings served with a Ginger Sauce. Ryan had not tried Gyoza before and despite being stuff from all the previous food he liked the delicate pork flavour, the slight char from the pan frying and the gentle ginger sauce. He shared one with me so I knew he was pretty full when he starts to share his food.
Tomorrow is Donna’s Birthday but many of the top end restaurants are closed on Mondays so we went out this evening to celebrate her birthday. We took our own advice from the 
Donna started her meal with the Prosciutto with Melons, Peaches and Mozzarella appetizer. The salty and thick prosciutto was a great match for the sweet melon and peaches. The fresh Mozzarella Balls were great texture contrasts for the fruit and the dense meat. The dish was dressed by a Thick Balsamic Reduction that despite being a vinegar was thick and sweet. The main ingredients were enough but a salad of Micro Greens completed the dish.
I went for the French Onion Soup as my appetizer. Donna warned me about eating it because of the long cheese strings the soup often produces but I went it for it anyway. What a great decision it was. The Giant Portion was full of flavour and actually hard to get to get a spoonful of just broth. The rich soup was full of sweet Onion, Cheese and Croutons. It was not overly salty as many onions soups I have had at other places most likely cause they used stock instead of those salty bullion cubes. It was excellent, so excellent that I brought half of it home. It didn’t make it past 30 minutes before Ryan had found it and heated it up for a snack. LOL. It was great soup and no stringy cheese on my clothes. LOL.
Donna and I decided to share a Casear Salad as our second course. We are Caesar Salad snobs because we have made this salad so many times and we think we have the recipe down pat. I have posted about 
Donna went for the Grilled Pork Chops as her main course. The one giant Bone-in Pork Chop came with Roasted Potatoes and Grilled Asparagus. The grilled pork chop was surounded by two generous pieces of Pancetta making a giant pork sandwich. The actual chop was cooked perfectly and was thick, very moist and sweet. The asparagus was well cooked and tasty. The potatoes were a little el-dente and could have roasted a few minutes longer for my taste but Donna like them as they were presented.
I was born in August and my mother opened a restaurant the next May. It had a great location, right on Highway #1 between Saint John (the biggest city in New Brunswick) and Calais, Maine (the 5th busiest border crossing between the US and Canada). She ran the restaurant for 29 years until she was 69 when she retired. The restaurant lay dormant for a few years until Dave Comeau convinced my mother that she should sell it to him. She did and Dave built the Comeau’s Seafood Restaurant into a thriving business specializing in fresh cooked seafood and home-made desserts. Rachael, Dave’s wife, does the baking and oversees the kitchen ensuring that each dish is of the highest quality. Dave and Rachael have changed the restaurant a great deal since I was a kid but the flavor of the food still reminds me of my Mom’s cooking.
Donna and I went to the restaurant at lunch today for the Hot Hamburger that Donna was craving. For some reason, we have never been able to get a Hot Hamburger in the US since we moved down there. The dish is pretty simple, a large Hamburger Patty is placed on a slice of Plain White Bread, covered with Brown Gravy and then another slice of bread and more gravy. Donna’s dish came with Mashed Potatoes, Diced Carrots and Coleslaw. Somehow the combination of gravy, hamburger and white bread are different than a burger and it always brings me back to my Mom’s cooking. The home-made gravy has obviously been simmering for hours if not days as it was brown and rich and just full of flavor. The sweet carrots and creamy mashed potatoes were nice contrast in texture and savory flavors of the meat and gravy. We still wonder why Diners across the US have not picked up this simple dish but if you are Pennfield Ridge, New Brunswick area make sure you try the Hot Hamburger.
I went for the Scallops and Haddock Platter as I knew the seafood would be fresh and it was Friday. The dish did not disappoint. With lightly battered fish and scallops, a generous portion of Fries and a side order of Coleslaw it was delicious and more than I could eat in one sitting. The light batter on the fish easily broke away to reveal flakes of Tender Fish that were sweet. A few drops of the tart lemon juice set up a great ying-yang of flavors. Same held true for the scallops but the flakes were replaced with a dense scallop meat that divided easily with the fork. The fries come breaded at Comeau’s so they were different than the other fries I have been eating this week and that was a welcome changed. Perfectly Cooked, as was the fish, the fries were crisp but maintaining a potato taste inside. The home-made Coleslaw was extra tangy today with crispy cabbage and a few carrot pieces mixed into what is becoming my favourite salad. It was a great dish and proved again that Comeau’s Seafood is some of the best around. Check it out if you are driving through my old homeland.
The Kennedy Inn’s version of the Lobster Roll is served with Fries and Coleslaw. The Lobster Roll itself is served in a New England Hot Dog Bun jammed with Lobster Salad. The meat again is a combination of generous chunks of Tail and Claw Meat, Mayo and Celery. This version was significantly moister than the 2nd entrant and a little moister than the 1st entrant. The meat mixture was also colder than the first two. The early morning time and the meat temperature suggested to me that the mixture was made the night before and stored in the refrigerator. It was still very tasty but I think if the temp had warmed up it was increased the flavor. The Golden Fries was crispy and well done but 10 more seconds of cooking would have put them over the top into the overcooked category. The Coleslaw was crunchy, tangy and an expected side to the roll. Net-Net a good competitor and worthy of a sample if you get to St. Andrews.
Our second contender in the Lobster Roll contest comes from The Gables in St. Andrews, New Brunswick. The Gables has a great outdoor patio right on St. Andrews Bay where you can eat in the sunlight and watch the tides flow in and out. I knew The Gables as the Black Bull when I was growing up and hanging around St. Andrews. They acknowledge their heritage a little bit by keeping the Bull Burger on the menu and it weren’t for the Lobster Roll challenge, that’s what I would have eaten. But back to the Lobster Roll.
The Gables’ version of this classic seafood sandwich came with a few fries, a portion of coleslaw and a slice of lemon. The generous portion of lobster meat came in a Toasted New England Hot Dog Bun. The lobster was a combination of bite-sized chunks of body and claw meat. The meat was lightly tossed with some Celery, Parsley and a little Mayo. The mixture was seasoned with salt and pepper and topped with Paprika. I found the amount of mayo was very light compared to other Lobster Rolls I had tried before. I tried a few drops of Lemon Juice and that made the Roll a lot more interesting with the contrast of sweet lobster meat and tang from the lemon. The meat was moist enough to prevent the sandwich from being dry but a little bit more mayo would have help. It was a good sandwich in a great location.
We made it to Canada for the Labour Day Weekend and to be with our daughter for her operation. While the debate for health-care choices goes on in the USA we are going to see the Canadian system upfront after the weekend. I am sure it will work out but it gives me a great reason to visit Wendy, Steven and my Mom before returning to the USA. While we are here, we have to eat so I intend to share some of our Canuck food adventures.
My first Lobster Roll, Donna can’t do seafood or it will be ugly for everyone, to report on was at Fisherman’s Cover Cafe in Lord’s Cover, Deer Island. It was served on a simple toasted bun with Jumbo Chunks of lobster meat coated in Mayo and mixed with fresh Celery. Topped with some Red Paprika it was a simple but delicious and a classic summertime sandwich. I have had Lobster Rolls over the years but I was impressed with density of lobster meat, both from the body and claws, that made up the majority of the sandwich. The sweetness of the lobster and crunch of the celery and bun gave the sandwich nice contrasts in textures. It was a great Lobster Roll so let’s grade this first one as an “8″ and measure the next few rolls against that score. In case in comes down to cost, and I hope it doesn’t this one was $12.95 CDN or about $10 USD.
Steamed Clams always make me think of summer and my Aunt Bert’s camp in L’Etete, Canada. My aunt Roberta, who we always called Bert introduced me to Steamed Clams or “Steamers” on a visit to her waterfront cottage in L’Etete when I was about 10 years old. She steamed her’s in a little bit of water and served them with butter, lemon and vinegar. As a 10 year old I found the clams to be amazing, sweet, salty, tart and sour all at the same time. It was an eye’s opening experience to me that something as weird looking as clams could taste that good.
For my appetizer, I went for Crayfish off the daily special menu. I was also looking at the Acadian Barbequed Shrimp but they came shell-on and I could only imagined getting my shirt covered in BBQ Shimp juices, so I went for pre-shelled Crayfish. It was a good choice. The sweet meat was well balanced against the slight heat from the broth. I was impressed by the amount of crayfish I got and how tender each one was. It felt like I was back in New Orlean’s again. Very nice appetizer.
For dessert, I convinced Donna to try Cherry Cheesecake Ice Cream and I went for the Rice Pudding. The restaurant-made ice cream was smooth and tasting very much like cherry cheesecake. It was very nice. Lino snagged us some Guinness Ice Cream as a sample. At first that tasted like coffee ice cream but as the ice cream warmed the flavour changed and you could taste the Guiness flavour. It was very interesting and very good.
